Google Apps SMTP for WP MultiSite?

How can you force WordPress MultiSite to send all emails via a Google Apps SMTP server? I have attempted to use Easy WP SMPTP, however that does not work exactly as I’d hoped, not to mention it fails to even send emails at all in tests through the Google Apps SMTP server.

It seems as though there should be a way to cleanly define to WordPress that all mail sent throughout network should go through a singular SMTP gateway (such as by Google Apps Gmail) vs having to jump through hoops.

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